PAPUA NEW GUINEA
EXPEDITION
AN UNMOTORISED CROSSING
21st March 2014
Week 2: Bewani to Green River
With our new found bow and arrow skills it is likely that we will be trying many more interesting foods to enjoy alongside the staple sago, though I am hoping these will not consist of some of the wildlife we have already spotted; scorpions, gargantuan spiders, huge centipedes and snakes.
While the snake is missing, presumed dead, after having a rock thrown at it by a local, the scorpions were very much alive as hammocks were hung above their nest – we have a lot of trust in Hennessy!
Despite the fatigue, blisters and heat, we continue to be blown away by the country itself. There have been stunning sunsets and beautiful scenery which makes the struggle all worth it at the end of the day. The large amount of tributaries and rivers has allowed us to wash regularly which makes a big difference after a tough day and Benson is an absolute hero. He smokes like a chimney and is a solid addition to the team; we know he will be difficult to replace on arriving in Green River.
Combined with the generosity of the locals this first week of consistent walking has been successful and we find ourselves growing stronger day by day. At least now we are through the mountains we have the lowlands to look forward to-though this stretch and the next stage will be by no means easy. As we venture onto paths less travelled, we will begin to walk in unmapped areas, with information we only ‘believe’ to be true and less villages in which to stop for the night.
Nevertheless, our continued support on the sat phone and social media means a lot out here and we’re pleased to hear of the coverage we have gained in the local newspaper and to learn that some of our newest followers are from PNG itself, all in addition to continued donations to ChildFund.
Thanks for following, and to everyone supporting PNG Expedition, although we can’t always reply to your texts on the sat phone it’s been great to hear what is going on in the world.
Keep them coming,
Richard Johnson
[blog called in via AST Satellite Comms]
P.S. Send us sports results!
Since our last blog update we have made steady progress having made our bags albeit, slightly, lighter. 3kg doesn’t sound a lot of kit to drop from a 39kg bag, but with the heat as oppressive as it is, every gram counts.
So far it has been the heat that is our greatest challenge; at the beginning of our route we were struggling in the afternoons, managing just 30-40 minutes of walking before feeling completely exhausted.
We’ve started to set off earlier now, leaving about 4 or 5am as it is so much cooler, and walking until about 2 pm. This has meant that we have been able to cover a large distance of our first stage and we are now almost two thirds of the way to Green River. This stretch has seen us tabbing 10-11 hours through the Bewani Mountain range which has been steep and really, really tough, taking its toll on our bodies with horrendous blisters and fatigue.
Much of the reason for this fatigue is due to simply not being able to consume enough calories – though through no fault of the Papuan people. Every person continues to be incredibly hospitable, kind and friendly allowing us to pitch hammocks under their huts, often offering us a lift in a pick up after warning the next village is much too far a distance to walk and we continue to be treated with meals and good company along the way.
The PNG Defence Force in Bewani were just one group of many who were interested in our journey and welcomed us to stay at their remote military outpost. They were really cool and after going through maps and looking at our route they gave us food and allowed us to set up camp. This gave us the opportunity to resupply before heading to the mountains and we have also had the soldiers checking up on our progress across the range which is valuable local support.
Our supply haul for this part of the trip consists mainly of dry noodles and tinned meat but we have had some more exotic delicacies in the last few days, one of which was turtle. After watching a local enjoy the spine, bones and all, I found myself presented with the head and realised I was expected to enjoy it in the same way. After crunching down on the skull I am not sure how to describe the experience… though compared to some kind of chicken-looking stress ball-textured meat I also tried, I don’t know which I prefer!